Where there's smoke

Posted by Kristina Sharp

Prehistoric humans smoked meat to prevent bacterial growth and preserve protein sources. Modern humans crowd into tile-floored delicatessens to devour smoked meat sandwiches that they will avoid mentioning to their cardiologists. Montréal, Que., Canada, which will host the RI Convention 20-23 June, takes pride in offering some of the world's finest sandwiches à la viande fumée.

Lines form outside the landmark Schwartz's Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen (3895 Boulevard St-Laurent) for a plate of smoked meat, fries, and a dill pickle. Other well-known delis include Lester's (1057 Bernard Ouest) and Dunn's (numerous locations).

At the heart of the classic deli sandwich is beef brisket. This cut is transformed, when cured with seasoning and brine, into corned beef (which has nothing to do with corn). Corned beef that's been smoked and flavored with a peppery seasoning is called pastrami in New York delis, although subtleties of flavor, cooking methods, and secret family recipes can make these categories difficult to slice.

In Montréal, most menus read simply "smoked meat." The same sort of fervor that surrounds the city's bagels and poutine supports entire websites devoted to distinguishing one variety of smoked meat from another. But those seeking an authentic deli experience all agree on one thing: Whether the cut is lean or fatty, the sandwich large-stacked or regular, topped with mustard or plain, Montréal's smoked meat is a delicacy that goes best with a cherry soda.

The Rotarian -- February 2010

To register for the 2010 RI Convention in Montreal, Canada, visit http://www.rotary.org/en/Members/Events/Convention